1990 Mazda Miata - $17,000 - GONE PARTED OUT -
#1
1990 Mazda Miata - $17,000 - GONE PARTED OUT -
Category: Import
Status: Clean Title
I have a 1990 Mazda Miata for sale, in USA - Illinois.
Mileage: 108,000 miles
Engine Size: 5.3L
Well, the cars up for sale for the time being.
It has about a 12-15k miles on it right now since the swap and has been a load of fun, but its time to move on.
AC works, power steering works, and brakes are REAL nice. It has Fat Mat insulation to keep the sound and heat out.
Build thread-
chpmnsws6's L33/'90 build thread - MX-5 Miata Forum
Tein Monoflex shocks
FM Front bar
RB rear bar
Poly A-Arm bushings (Now with grease fittings!!!)
Kirk 6 point roll bar
Freedom towel front shock tower brace
94+ bracing
Boss Frog's Frog Arms (Added with V8 Swap)
ARP front wheel studs
Willwood front BBK with Corrado rotors and XP8 pads
Rear M-Tuned BBK
Engine-
L33
V8R pan
Ls6 intake
Shimmed oil pump
ASP C5 Pulley
CTS-V AC compressor
new C5 power steering pump
new F-body alternator
Sanderson coated headers
Stainless steel exhaust from Jason at Enthuza Car (This is the most beautiful exhaust I've ever seen! It is a shame to have to put it under the car!!! The support from Jason is also second to none!!!)
ASA Cam
LS6 springs
Ti retainers
LS6 hollow/sodium filled valves (Making the 799 heads a true LS6 head)
HPTuners tuned
Cooling-
PRC Radiator
Stock condenser with 4 tabs welded to it to mount to PRC Radiator
Oil filter mounted within the front bumper opening
C5 power steering cooler
Ford Taurus fan-low speed=2900 cfm and high speed =3800 cfm
Aluminum Splitter/skid/ducting. Improved MPG and helped keep the nose better planted
Swap kit-
V8R rear mount kit
Differential-
TII batwing housing
929 Carrier
FD Torsen Differential
MMR differential bushings
Miata Roadster custom hubs to fit stock TII axles (A real life saver and like Jason at Enthuzacar, Bill is a GREAT person to deal with!)
Fueling-
Deatschwerks fuel pump
Push loc AN6 feed
Stock return
Fuel Lab adjustable FPR
Wiring- All factory PCM wiring removed from under dash and under hood (a trash bag full of wiring) while still retaining all the wiring needed to run the L33, along with monitoring its vitals.
Wheels and tires-
15x8 XXR 531 front wheels
16x8 XXR 531 rear wheels
Kuhmo Escta AST tires. Under 200 miles on them.
Needs-
Paint/bodywork
2nd gear pops out (15 dollar synchro once trans is pulled. I'll send the 5th gear puller if you want to tackle the project)
I get around 16-19mpg in town and 27mpg on the highway not trying to conserve fuel. Shell 93 only.
This thing is the fastest car I've EVER driven.
17,000 takes it.
Status: Clean Title
I have a 1990 Mazda Miata for sale, in USA - Illinois.
Mileage: 108,000 miles
Engine Size: 5.3L
Well, the cars up for sale for the time being.
It has about a 12-15k miles on it right now since the swap and has been a load of fun, but its time to move on.
AC works, power steering works, and brakes are REAL nice. It has Fat Mat insulation to keep the sound and heat out.
Build thread-
chpmnsws6's L33/'90 build thread - MX-5 Miata Forum
Tein Monoflex shocks
FM Front bar
RB rear bar
Poly A-Arm bushings (Now with grease fittings!!!)
Kirk 6 point roll bar
Freedom towel front shock tower brace
94+ bracing
Boss Frog's Frog Arms (Added with V8 Swap)
ARP front wheel studs
Willwood front BBK with Corrado rotors and XP8 pads
Rear M-Tuned BBK
Engine-
L33
V8R pan
Ls6 intake
Shimmed oil pump
ASP C5 Pulley
CTS-V AC compressor
new C5 power steering pump
new F-body alternator
Sanderson coated headers
Stainless steel exhaust from Jason at Enthuza Car (This is the most beautiful exhaust I've ever seen! It is a shame to have to put it under the car!!! The support from Jason is also second to none!!!)
ASA Cam
LS6 springs
Ti retainers
LS6 hollow/sodium filled valves (Making the 799 heads a true LS6 head)
HPTuners tuned
Cooling-
PRC Radiator
Stock condenser with 4 tabs welded to it to mount to PRC Radiator
Oil filter mounted within the front bumper opening
C5 power steering cooler
Ford Taurus fan-low speed=2900 cfm and high speed =3800 cfm
Aluminum Splitter/skid/ducting. Improved MPG and helped keep the nose better planted
Swap kit-
V8R rear mount kit
Differential-
TII batwing housing
929 Carrier
FD Torsen Differential
MMR differential bushings
Miata Roadster custom hubs to fit stock TII axles (A real life saver and like Jason at Enthuzacar, Bill is a GREAT person to deal with!)
Fueling-
Deatschwerks fuel pump
Push loc AN6 feed
Stock return
Fuel Lab adjustable FPR
Wiring- All factory PCM wiring removed from under dash and under hood (a trash bag full of wiring) while still retaining all the wiring needed to run the L33, along with monitoring its vitals.
Wheels and tires-
15x8 XXR 531 front wheels
16x8 XXR 531 rear wheels
Kuhmo Escta AST tires. Under 200 miles on them.
Needs-
Paint/bodywork
2nd gear pops out (15 dollar synchro once trans is pulled. I'll send the 5th gear puller if you want to tackle the project)
I get around 16-19mpg in town and 27mpg on the highway not trying to conserve fuel. Shell 93 only.
This thing is the fastest car I've EVER driven.
17,000 takes it.
Last edited by charchri4; 03-03-2014 at 11:38 AM.
#2
It also has a battery cut off switch with Flaming river rod, and a circuit breaker in the separate alternator circuit. It also has a brand new Super Start Premium larger battery and 2 gauge wire going to the starter vs the stock 4-5 gauge.
It has a brand new cloth top that hasn't seen rain yet. No hard top. It either stays with, or add 600 to the total.
Another thing I forgot to mention was R-tie rod ends. I also have a box of new inner and outer tie rods ends, along with lower ball joints.
It has a brand new cloth top that hasn't seen rain yet. No hard top. It either stays with, or add 600 to the total.
Another thing I forgot to mention was R-tie rod ends. I also have a box of new inner and outer tie rods ends, along with lower ball joints.
Last edited by chpmnsws6; 09-22-2010 at 01:15 PM.
#4
Possibly back to a turbo Miata (robino's), or use the cash as a down payment for a new STI. Just as I got the car finished, Nursing school started. Now I have ZERO time to dink with it, and will not be able to race it for the next few years. It was built to handle the track, but refined enough for the street (AC and powersteering both work GREAT)......... and I don't get to do either much anymore haha
It needs paint, a 2nd gear syncho, and figure out what the popping is in the front end. I might try to diagnose the popping this weekend after work if the rain holds out. If it doesn't sell by winter, its going in for paint and a built trans. The car ran great for the 1000 miles or so I drove it, but I prefer the leather seats, height, and boringness of the jeep (to keep me out of jail!). The car is a rocket out of the hole, and before you know it, your hitting 100mph.
It needs paint, a 2nd gear syncho, and figure out what the popping is in the front end. I might try to diagnose the popping this weekend after work if the rain holds out. If it doesn't sell by winter, its going in for paint and a built trans. The car ran great for the 1000 miles or so I drove it, but I prefer the leather seats, height, and boringness of the jeep (to keep me out of jail!). The car is a rocket out of the hole, and before you know it, your hitting 100mph.
Last edited by chpmnsws6; 09-23-2010 at 03:32 PM.
#5
I hear ya. I'm a big Suby guy. Had a Forester XT that made 400 whp and currently have a LegGT as the family wagon. Only minor mods and a tune but if I ever wanted another fun hatch I'd pick up a newer STI.
I should finish my Miata soon enough to store it on the lift for the winter. . Oh well, when it's done it's done. I've lost some interest but still want to get it done. Finally got the header stuff sorted out with Sanderson.
I wish a pretty well affordable sorted out car like yours was available when I was starting. Buying a finished car is a good way to save money and time (if you have a life, family, school, etc.).
Good luck again and hang around. Robino's car is pretty nice and seems well sorted.
Frank
I should finish my Miata soon enough to store it on the lift for the winter. . Oh well, when it's done it's done. I've lost some interest but still want to get it done. Finally got the header stuff sorted out with Sanderson.
I wish a pretty well affordable sorted out car like yours was available when I was starting. Buying a finished car is a good way to save money and time (if you have a life, family, school, etc.).
Good luck again and hang around. Robino's car is pretty nice and seems well sorted.
Frank
#6
Yeah, had I known what it really cost to build one of these, I would have just bought Nathans. I will not drop the price a penny though, and as soon as winter hits or Robino's car sells, it goes off the market for good.
#7
Mike, good luck selling your car and with school. You have been one of my inspirations. I will be going to Florida soon where I will be able to return to and finish my build. Keep us all informed of your happenings.
John J
John J
#8
Thanks! As I've said before, it it doesn't sell, I wouldn't be bothered in the least. Its a fun car and VERY quick. You will have a smile from ear to ear when you get yours done John!
#9
Don't drop the price. People have got to realize the work that goes into these things. There are so few of them on the road that the prices could really be decided by the sellers, not the buyers, if sellers would just hold their ground. I did and sold three. The last sold for $23,000 with just a 306 Ford in it.
There is nothing immoral about making a profit. It's what makes society function. Read Ayn Rand (and vote Libertarian).
-Jason
There is nothing immoral about making a profit. It's what makes society function. Read Ayn Rand (and vote Libertarian).
-Jason
Last edited by MRM331; 10-01-2010 at 08:15 AM.
#10
The funny part is at 17k, I'm still in the red on this project, not including any labor or tools needed. It won't budge a penny from this price as it sits. Once body work is done and I replace the 15 dollar part in the transmission, it will be priced at 23k
#17
#18
2500 miles on the swap now! Its my DD this summer when I don't feel like driving the Jeep. 17-18mpg is what I'm NOW pulling in town (just have to keep it below 4k and no WOT passes).
#24
BTW- it has sway bars now and the popping in the front end was fixed. Upper ball joints were loose. Fixed with V8R ball joints and tack welded them in. Clutch pedal is reinforced, oil cooler was removed, and a power steering filter was added. New front brakes were added (Hawk HPS pads) to get rid of the dusty XP8 pads.
Body work still needs done and 2nd gear fixed. I've learned to feel the gear so I haven't worried about fixing it. I'll keep driving it till someone buys it since it gets around 8-10mpg better then the Jeep in town if I can keep my foot out of it.
Body work still needs done and 2nd gear fixed. I've learned to feel the gear so I haven't worried about fixing it. I'll keep driving it till someone buys it since it gets around 8-10mpg better then the Jeep in town if I can keep my foot out of it.