Hello. I have an original Monster Miata with the 302 fuel injected conversion. I am trying to install AC into the car but when we put on the stock bracket the hood won't close. I've seen under hood pics with other 302 conversions with AC. Do I have to buy a specific bracket for hood clearance?

 

i'm using the custom bracket from monster miata that is built to retain the miata powersteering, and hold the ford a/c unit... and still, my hood did not close.. since I have no A/C i just cut the bracket down, but I beleive the only thing extra that can be done is shim down the engine as much as possible before the steering rack hits the pan, and put spacers between the k member to lower it 1/4 inch, maybe even 3/8..

I havn't done this so I can't comment on whether this lifts the body up or not, i would think not because the struts still bolt onto the same place on the body.

hopefully someone else can comment.

 

Interesting. Didn't think of spacers on the K member. I Google imaged 302 miata and I see lots of them with the AC compressor attached and stock hood. I was think of doing the SN-95 conversion, but afraid we would have to hack the body in order for compressor to fit.

 

Ya, Jason mentioned lowering the k member in another thread recently, had never though of that either... hopefully someone else can give you a bit more info from their experience

 

I shimmed my K member using some thick metal bar VS using a stack of washers. I wanted the K member to be supported along the length of the frame. I have the AC and cut my hood per the Monster Miata instructions. Closes just fine. Here is a side profile pic with hood off. I have more of an issue with the radiator hose hitting the hood.


Here is the hood on.

 

Gun did you have to mess with the K member for hood to close or did cutting alone do the job? Any shots under hood where you cut?

 

https://www.v8miata.net/general-miat...age2/#post9082

Check this ^^ out Clint

 

Is this what you are talking about to fit AC?

"-Cut out the webbing from under the hood, machine a combined 1/4 inch out of the upper and lower intake mating surfaces (1/8th out of each), space the K-frame down 3/8ths of an inch at all 6 mounting points and make sure the clearance between the oil pan and the steering rack is no more than "two credit card's thickness" with the trans bolted up and in place. Also, replace the screws holding the TPS sensor with flat Allen screws. Note that since you've technically lowered the car in relation to the rack and subframe you'll need to swap in a set of '93 LE tie rod ends to cancel out the bumpsteer you'll get."

 

when gunpilot was talking about cutting the hood as per the monster miata manual, it meant cutting out the webbing from under the hood yes. The manual has detailed instructions on cutting out the webbing (bracing) under the hood. i'm guessing yours should already have been done?

 

That is correct. Cut out the webbing under the hood. I used stock 302 AC mount, but used the power steering technique that Jason used. I retained the Miata power steering pump on the 302 block and had a machine shop cut an old Miata water pump pulley to slip over the 302 crank pulley creating a stack for 2 belts. Also used Jason's AC hoses.

 

Ah I see. So I am guessing Jason is the person who run McCully Racing right?

 

Roger that!

 

I am working on a 5.0 in my 93 Miata and just installing the engine now. Will the hood clear the belt tensioner and the throttle position sender on the 5.0 without the subframe shims? I do not have A/C or smog but the belt tensioner and throttle sender look like it may be hit the hood. I will cut the hood bracing per Monster Miata instruction.

Dick H

 

Hi Dick

most people seem to have managed to make this fit, but my experience was not so succesful. i have no shims on the k member, it is directly bolted in.

the throttle body screws, AND the intake were hitting the hood, even with all the webbing and braces removed from the hood. to resolve this, i cut a hole and added a hood scoop - not my favorite solution, but since i plan on going with aftermarket intake one day, i figured i'd end up having to do this anyway.


for the tensioner pulley, was not fitting at all.. it was about 1/2 an inch too high.. i drilled new holes and lowered the whole assembly down, and also grinded the front corver a bit with the belt on.. and repainted. that took care of the front of the hood.

the heater hoses however, going over the alternator, did not work at all, i had to route them behind and around the alternator..

also the filler neck was way too high, i cut about 3/4 inch off the thermostat housing to lower the filler neck...

i might have been able to lower the front of the engine 1/16th of an inch lower, but still the hood would not have closed...

3 possibilities here, either i'm really bad at this, OR my build was an odd ball one, OR there's just no way to do this without shimming the k member... one of these 3 has to be true. lol

hope this helps!

Gabe.

 

Also!!! a note, i also have no a/c and no smog.. and with a 2nd belt for the power steering, that leaves an issue for belt routing... i ended up reversing the tensioner spring so the pulley pushes the opposite way.. my pulley is under the belt and pushes upwards..

I'm not sure if lowering the pulley would work if you had it working the original way