Self oil pan modification 5.0
#1
Self oil pan modification 5.0
Does any one have specs/measurements on modifying a stock Ford 5.0 oil pan. I.E: measurements I can pretty much tell from some pictures ive found but I like to be extra sure.
#2
If you are not going to buy the Monster Miata kit, why modify the oil pan? Build a sub-frame to accept the stock pan. You will also gain some header clearance as well. Somebody on here went that route.
#3
My plan was to just cut the factory sub-frame (basically what the mm kit looks like and box it in. I didn't plan on building my own I guess, seems curing the pan would be easier than making a whole sub frame. Its something to think about though..
#4
Since moving the steering rack is not a good idea, the relationship between the rack and the pan really determines where the motor sits. So, once you have the subframe modified to your desires, remove the pan and set (hang) the motor roughly in place. Slide it back as far as you can, which should be approximately when the oil pump hits the rack, and down as far as you can, which should be when the rotating parts hit the rack. That's the absolute minimum. Adjust up and forward to allow some clearance inside, and make your pan fit that space. The vertical wall of the front sump of the pan can be very close to the oil pump, even touching. The horizontal part can be very close to the rotating parts, usually the rod bolts, preferably not touching (makes a funny noise when running).
You also may find that the drivers side head hits the firewall. Adjust the firewall appropriately.
Another thought: when you're positioning the motor, offset it as much as possible toward the passenger side, keeping it parallel to the centerline. It helps the header clearance at the steering. As I recall, there is some interference of the passenger side header at the "wing" of the subframe that can be relieved during the subframe mod.
Mike
You also may find that the drivers side head hits the firewall. Adjust the firewall appropriately.
Another thought: when you're positioning the motor, offset it as much as possible toward the passenger side, keeping it parallel to the centerline. It helps the header clearance at the steering. As I recall, there is some interference of the passenger side header at the "wing" of the subframe that can be relieved during the subframe mod.
Mike
#6
How far to the right side are we talking here? an inch? Good info so far though. I was reading a guys build i think his name was Seims or something, hes on here, anyway he mentioned that he didnt need to come as far forward with the cutting of the subframe as he did. Id like to know how far forward (toward front of the car) to come. I have not decided on what headers I will use, probobly go with the ranger/early mustang combo from summit that everyone is talking about...
#8
I just figured if im modyfing my sub frame and I trim the pan too, I can get the engine to sit as low as possible. I still gathering parts, I have my 5.0 on the stand I may bolt the pump and pick-up on and trim up the pan. to fit as close to the pump and pick-up as I can. My pan has a little surface rust so if when it comes down to it I wont feel bad if I have to replace it.
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fun02se
V8 Miata Wiring, Electrical, and ECUs
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01-17-2012 01:22 PM
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