Why that name for this project, simple, the previous owner built the original 5.0L Miata, then decided to yank it apart and left it for dead in it's detached graveyard when he lost interest. I stepped in recently, dug the car up, and whisked it away to my a secret laboratory somewhere in deep dark recesses of PA. Where I shall breath life into this dead hulk.

The good (so far), a rebuilt motor with 10:1 compression, AFR165s, Ed Curtis cam, 70mm TB, Pro-M 80mm MAS, 24lb injectors, soon to be coupled with a slightly modified WC T5, back to a rebuilt 7.5" posi rear with 3:55 rear gears. Wilwood big brake kit on front, modified RX7 TII's out back.Tubular front A arms, and a rust free body as well.

My goal is to finish up the exterior clean up and detailing of the motor, then jump in to the empty engine compartment and do a little clean up there as well. If I get really motivated, maybe it will be all together and running before the end of the year


Bill S.

 

Sweet! I'll keep an eye out for this possibly fast moving re-build. The monster needs a brain!!! Or, at least, putting the motor back in so he can live again.

How's the overall condition of the car? Any issues? Please post more pics and keep the build thread alive.

 

There are some wiring issues I'll deal with as I clean up and detail the engine compartment.

Body has had some panel repaints (noticed once I had time to steam clean the car and engine compartment) I did not catch when I first bought the car. Nothing serious that I could find (I used to own a body shop) upon close, indoor, well lit inspection. Interior just needs a good cleaning, otherwise looks almost factory stock except for the aftermarket radio.......

This weekend is filled with family time, might get a day to myself early in the week (weather dependent) to work on the car.

First step is to button up the motor, which I tore down this morning to check on the condition of the rebuild after it sat unused for 3 years. Surprisingly, the inside was quite clean,and had been properly coated with oil, turns over by hand nicely, and has no corrosion build up (I have a video bore-scope). Will clean up the valve covers, replace the lower and upper intakes, and reinstall the oil pan first. Once that is done I'll get in and start cleaning up the wiring, then work on sanding, priming, and repainting the areas where the patches were welded in. Those areas where never properly prepped the first time and the steam cleaner removed the paint in sheets. Etch primer will be used, then I'll find an antique white, high heat automotive paint to take care of the top coat. Pictures of the engine compartment were right after I steamed it clean, you'll see the condensation on the windshield in the picture above.

Will try to document with photos as I move along.

Bill S.

 

Wiring issues taken care of, engine compartment steam cleaned and repainted where needed. Engine just starting to come back together. Might have time to drop it in next week, we will see.


Bill S.

PS: Already have someone asking if it is for sale

 

Lot's of progress today

Motor is in, headers are in place. Might get the transmission installed on Thursday or Friday and have the car running before the end of the month

 

LOL which month exactly? Just kidding great looking build!!

 

I really like the color of those valve covers. You going to paint the rest of the car to match?

Looking good!

 

Still trying, did not get to touch it at all today.


No, the car stays it's original white


Bill S.

 

3 steps forward, 1 step back:
December 27th 2013 update


3 steps forward: As they say, the devil is in the details, spent the day installing the headers, reworked fuel lines, priming the motor, and a host of other small items.

1 step back: As we were installing the fuel lines, and rerouting the wiring harness, I came across an old splice that I personally was just not happy with. So, in my true fashion, the harness was pulled out of the engine compartment and all sheathing pulled off so I could make sure there were no other hidden surprises (there were ). So a little over 4 hours later, with the freshly inspected wiring harness restored and wrapped, I reinstalled it in the engine compartment. If you look at the pictures of the compartment above, and compare it to the only picture I took yesterday, you'll notice a world of difference.

Now, am I still on track to potentially have the car up and running before the 1st, that remains to be seen. I've made arrangements to borrow a lift at a friends shop on Monday afternoon, and I just might get the clutch, bellhousing, and transmission installed. We are down to the wire on the white car, we'll see if I can pull it off (I will not cut corners to do so). Now taking bets to see whether I can pull it off or not.

Bill S.

 

Looking good!! You did the right thing by digging into the harness for further inspection. Yea, it took a few hours, but having peace-of-mind later on is well worth the effort! I'm pulling for ya - make this thing run on Jan 1 !!!

 

Never got the transmission installed yesterday as my friends shop was too busy to use the lift. Did button up the top end, so all I need to do is install the radiator and hoses once it is on the lift. The countdown begins, will I make it




Bill S.

 

My money says YES. Great project and effort.

 

Yes you will. Bring Frankenmiata alive again.

 

It is uncanny how as soon as you go public with a startup goal things fall apart! Yep been there done that TWICE! I just want to encourage you to relax and take your time. Enjoy the process now because believe it or not 6 months after you have her on the road you will miss being in the shop up to your arm pits in Miata parts!

 

Jim,

I am very relaxed, feel no pressure, have everything laid out on a work bench (down to the nuts and bolts) just awaiting the car currently on my friends lift to be finished. They are waiting on a transmission line which should be in and installed before lunch. I'll head down a little after that and get to work. I figure about 2-2.5 hours start to finish, as this is not my first transmission install on a 5.0L/T5 combination.....

Worse comes to worse, I can always bleed the brakes on the ground while I am waiting for the lift.


Bill S.

PS: This one may go up for sale in January, same goes for my Mariner Blue MM conversion, as we may be moving to the south in the spring and garage space will be severely limited (69GT500 fastback gets top priority for an indoor garage space)

 

LOL brakes? You just brought back great memories of the first 80 miles on mine. Open headers and 3 pumps of the brake pedal before any resistance was felt!

I pulling for you and can’t wait to hear how it comes out for you!! No surprises and lots of smiles is the order of the day!

 

Well, almost everything is bolted up, going to have to cut and reweld the flange from the exhaust to the header as the flanges on the new style headers from Martin are not cut on the same angle.


Tried to fire the car anyway with just the headers on and got no signal to the starter. Fuel pressure is good, starter would not even click. And yes, battery is brand new, and had been trickle charged for a full charge showing.

Thoughts:

Is the neutral safety switch hooked up to the T5, or is their a bypass? I see two electrical connections on the T5, but no harness leading even close to either or.

Could I have a bad ground? Guess the first thing to check on Friday will be to see if I have power to the starter.

Maybe a bad fuse or relay?

Bill S.

 

Check the clutch switch, also. Try to "jump-it" at the solenoid. If it will turn over that way, the problem is with the "trigger" signal. I seem to recall that my ignition switch had become contaminated during the down-time of my build. A shot of WD-40 in the ignition switch fixed it. GOOD LUCK!!

 

Turned out to be a bad battery (brand new Bosch, go figure), just enough juice to get the interior lights and gauges to work, not enough to do anything else......




Bill S.

 

Cool!!

 

 

Not quite the first start, had some minor issues today with intermittent fuel pressure and decided to swap out the fuel pump. Can you see the issue in the attached picture which would cause the fuel issue

Once that was taken care of, we did get a chance to take two quick videos of the car. Unfortunately, the first one showing the car coming out of the garage into the road was corrupt, so all you get is the short clip showing it getting backed up and driven the 8 or so feet into the other garage bay at my friends shop. And yes, that is 6 inches of beautiful fresh powdery snow it is going through



Bill S.

PS: yes, I know, I need to fix the lights

 

Oh that baby sounds GREAT!!!

 

Keep in mind the exhaust leaks horribly at the moment due to the beautifully built, new style MM header flanges not being the same as the older style. The exhaust flanges (not header) now have to be cut and rewelded. So, at the moment I have one bolt per side through the flanges just to hold them in place.....It did sound wicked though when we first fired it up .


Bill S.

 

What did Martin change about his header flanges? Mine liked to have their gaskets changed on a regular basis until I used some Percy's aluminum gaskets.