tehowner

So, I知 finally getting around to making a build thread for my 302 miata build!

Some back story:

About 10 months ago now I started getting the itch to add a bit more power to my miata. The way I saw it, I had 2 options, rebuild the aging 1.8 (which was going through oil like a pack a day smoker) and turbo charge it, or do something I thought was crazy at the time and swap in a v8.

You can guess where I ended up .


Before I get to far, while I have done a bit of suspension work and routine maintenance on my vehicles previously, I had never done any project of this size. But hey, fortune favors the bold.

I made the final decision when on this forum I saw someone selling the majority of components I would need for the project (shout out to Kevin S., I hope everything with your family turned out OK man) for a great deal.

With the Kit purchased (Front and rear subframe already modified, differential, Megasquirt ECU, ford Wiring harness, clutch and flywheel, Martin痴 powder coated headers, rear wheel carrier痴 and axle痴, accessories, some gauges, and a few things I知 sure I am forgetting at the moment), I started the disassembly process. I pulled the engine/transmission (with a bit of help from my father), started removing the various suspension components from the subframes, and recently swapped out the original subframes with the modified ones (Thanks to my brother-in-law for the help on that one), and am currently in the process of replacing the bushings in the suspension with the upgraded rubber bushings from Flyin Miata.

For the engine, I decided to stick with the over-the-top nature of this project and build the engine myself. I知 about to order a remanufactured bottom end, and have picked up a large number of parts from Summit, which should make one hell of an engine.

Next on my to do list include (in no particular order):
Finish swapping out the bushings in the suspension
Finish Modifying the ford harness
Fab up an exhaust (this is actually the part i知 most concerned about)
Drop the engine/transmission in
Install the transmission brace
Get it tuned (this is something I知 not going to play around with)
A bunch of other things I don稚 know about yet

I have a habit of taking things slowly, but I recently found myself with an abundance of time on my hands, so the plan is to finish knocking everything out and have a running car by the end of January. I値l try to keep this thread updated on progress, and of course I値l do my fare share of searching/googling/research before pelleting the thread with questions (this site has already been a great resource).

Images of the build can be found on my Google Photo's album:
https://goo.gl/photos/9cmVwyE53J5Z7KrE9

97miatam

congrats, after two years of building I finally got to dive mine a couple weeks ago. Makes all the time and energy worth it!

jrmotorsports55

I'm 2 years in to mine, still not on the road. Welcome!

Ford5.0

Welcome. I'm also 2 years in. Haven't heard mine run yet, but hopefully soon.

tehowner

On friday the block finally came in!

After fiddling around trying to get it on the stand(It was a re manufactured short block with the crank and pistons installed, quite heavy), I finally settled on using my engine load leveler with the hoist 4 7/16 - 14 2 inch bolts and washers to get it in the air.

I also installed the camshaft (ford E303) and the heads (ARP bolts, ford performance x-heads)! Seeing the engine on a stand gets me really excited to get it in the car!

tbone heller

Be sure to dip your lower head bolts into some of this:Permatex Form-A-Gasket 80017 - Aviation No. 3 Sealant Liquid | O'Reilly Auto Parts before installing them, or else you will be chasing a pesky coolant leak.

tehowner

I used the ARP ultra torque lube that came with the head bolts

jrmotorsports55

I can speak from experience, pull the bottom ones, one by one, clean them and coat them with the sealer, then torque them to 75 individually. I had coolant start seeping between head and block, and it was because I did not put enough sealer on one bolt. It's a pain to drain the coolant from the bottom of the block once installed. Do it right the first time, it was a PITA for me.

Engine looks good!

tbone heller

Sealer on the threads, lube on the washers.

tbone heller

Straight off of the ARP Q&A page:

Do the threads of the bolts or studs going into the block need lube?
Yes. On blind holes use a small amount of ARP Ultra-Torque lube on those threads. Additionally, if the studs protrude into a water jacket, you will need to clean the threads in the block to remove all coolant and oil residue. Apply a liberal amount of ARP thread sealer or a high temperature thread sealer.

tehowner

Thanks for the advice guys,

I went ahead and re-did the head gasket (new felpro gasket, the original one came with the short block and I wasn't all that happy with the quality in the first place) with the sealer linked above.

At the moment, waiting for another another shipment from summit of engine parts while I finish off the suspension bushings.

tbone heller

Be sure you have the head gaskets on correctly. The part that says "FRONT" needs to be towards the front even though the gasket looks up-side-down.