Canadian Monster Miata SN95 Build
#52
Pcm location?
Hi there,
I'm also using an sn95 and I'm trying to find a good spot for the pcm and the tfi. Ive been fiddling with some spots for the last hour, and thought next to the master cylinder would be good, but the area is bumpy and there's a bolt sticking out... then I saw that that's exactly where you put yours! I'm curious how you ended up mounting it??
Great build by the way!
I'm also using an sn95 and I'm trying to find a good spot for the pcm and the tfi. Ive been fiddling with some spots for the last hour, and thought next to the master cylinder would be good, but the area is bumpy and there's a bolt sticking out... then I saw that that's exactly where you put yours! I'm curious how you ended up mounting it??
Great build by the way!
#53
Thanks man,
I've actually mounted it with a couple zip ties I believe, through the side of the engine bay when the fender was removed. As far as the TFI, I have mine on the stock side in basically the stock location - you might be able to see it in the pics, its right behind my coolant overflow tank.
I haven't really updated this thread in a long time but a fair bit has happened so I'll do a big update in a second here.
I've actually mounted it with a couple zip ties I believe, through the side of the engine bay when the fender was removed. As far as the TFI, I have mine on the stock side in basically the stock location - you might be able to see it in the pics, its right behind my coolant overflow tank.
I haven't really updated this thread in a long time but a fair bit has happened so I'll do a big update in a second here.
#54
So where to start, I initially finished this car in the beginning of April - making it a 3 month, 400 hour build. I was going a bit insane to get it done but we had to move out of the house / garage I was renting at the time.
I drove the car around for about a month - it ran a bit hot but never overheated.
One day I go out to drive the car and as I put my foot on the clutch to start it, the clutch goes right to the floor. Going underneath I confirmed my suspicion that the hydraulic throw out bearing had leaked. I tried bleeding it with fresh fluid and had no luck.
Then the car sat for 4 months because I was in school again with no time to work on it, to repair the hydraulic throw out bearing I would have to pull the engine / trans. I would NOT recommend going with a McLeod hydraulic throw out bearing, it was really not worth it in the end for me.
So in September of this year I finally had some time and money again to repair and improve this thing. I pulled the engine and cooked up a cheap hydraulic clutch conversion far better than the McLeod.
To do this home brew hydraulic clutch I cut off the end of the stock clutch fork so it wasn't sticking out, and used the hole that was left when I removed the big weight it had on the end.
Modern Driveline made this kit for several hundred dollars that converted your sn95 to hydraulic. How To Install Modern Driveline's Hydraulic Clutch Photo & Image Gallery
I didnt see the point in spending that money on a bent bracket and a slave cylinder that appeared to be an OE aftermarket part. After some web searching I found the part / equivalent part MDL uses in their kits, it was under $15 canadian on RockAuto and is part AMS AUTOMOTIVE S0635.
After planning it out I fabbed up some steel brackets and drilled holes to mount them, this bracket is rock solid, much more solid than the MDL kit appears to be. My solution also puts the two main brackets under tension when loaded which was preferable in my opinion. The needle thing coming out of the slave is a grade 8 bolt with the head cut off.
I can also say that the slave is the same thread as the stock miata, so an aftermarket braided clutch line works quite nicely. My clutch set up was about $100 canadian with the braided line making up about $80 of that total.
I have used this new clutch set up and can say it works quite well. For reference I am still using a 1986 Toyota Landcruiser master cylinder.
I also installed two 10" SPAL fans (IX-30100435) in conjunction with a temperature controlled fan controller. To go along with this I did a lot more ducting for the rad, almost all air through the mouth now goes through the rad. This and the fan upgrade did a lot for my cooling, no more running hot.
I also rerouted my air intake into the fender, now becoming an actual cold air intake.
Here is the cone behind the bumper
First, a cardboard template.
Then out of stainless sheet
Fuel lines were upgraded to braided line and AN fittings
Also decided the shifter could be a lot cooler, so that was done (dont mind the cracked radio surround).
There she is folks! Now sporting a hard top
I drove the car around for about a month - it ran a bit hot but never overheated.
One day I go out to drive the car and as I put my foot on the clutch to start it, the clutch goes right to the floor. Going underneath I confirmed my suspicion that the hydraulic throw out bearing had leaked. I tried bleeding it with fresh fluid and had no luck.
Then the car sat for 4 months because I was in school again with no time to work on it, to repair the hydraulic throw out bearing I would have to pull the engine / trans. I would NOT recommend going with a McLeod hydraulic throw out bearing, it was really not worth it in the end for me.
So in September of this year I finally had some time and money again to repair and improve this thing. I pulled the engine and cooked up a cheap hydraulic clutch conversion far better than the McLeod.
To do this home brew hydraulic clutch I cut off the end of the stock clutch fork so it wasn't sticking out, and used the hole that was left when I removed the big weight it had on the end.
Modern Driveline made this kit for several hundred dollars that converted your sn95 to hydraulic. How To Install Modern Driveline's Hydraulic Clutch Photo & Image Gallery
I didnt see the point in spending that money on a bent bracket and a slave cylinder that appeared to be an OE aftermarket part. After some web searching I found the part / equivalent part MDL uses in their kits, it was under $15 canadian on RockAuto and is part AMS AUTOMOTIVE S0635.
After planning it out I fabbed up some steel brackets and drilled holes to mount them, this bracket is rock solid, much more solid than the MDL kit appears to be. My solution also puts the two main brackets under tension when loaded which was preferable in my opinion. The needle thing coming out of the slave is a grade 8 bolt with the head cut off.
I can also say that the slave is the same thread as the stock miata, so an aftermarket braided clutch line works quite nicely. My clutch set up was about $100 canadian with the braided line making up about $80 of that total.
I have used this new clutch set up and can say it works quite well. For reference I am still using a 1986 Toyota Landcruiser master cylinder.
I also installed two 10" SPAL fans (IX-30100435) in conjunction with a temperature controlled fan controller. To go along with this I did a lot more ducting for the rad, almost all air through the mouth now goes through the rad. This and the fan upgrade did a lot for my cooling, no more running hot.
I also rerouted my air intake into the fender, now becoming an actual cold air intake.
Here is the cone behind the bumper
First, a cardboard template.
Then out of stainless sheet
Fuel lines were upgraded to braided line and AN fittings
Also decided the shifter could be a lot cooler, so that was done (dont mind the cracked radio surround).
There she is folks! Now sporting a hard top
#57
MilesLA
Very sweet build, I always like to see when somebody is thinking "outside the box". I also like that you have included updates and changes to improve your ride.
Well Done EH!! LOL
now whats in store for round #2 ?
Dean0
Very sweet build, I always like to see when somebody is thinking "outside the box". I also like that you have included updates and changes to improve your ride.
Well Done EH!! LOL
now whats in store for round #2 ?
Dean0
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