Z-

If you refer to Jim's gallery on the previous page, there are many measurements that might influence your decision on the speedmaster pan. His Kevko pan is only about an inch deep in the front, from the looks of the picture anyways.

 

The pictures are being measured from the bottom of the oil pan flange. The pictures also seem to vary between 1" to 1.5".

So add roughly 1/4" to those measurements. I had speedmaster measure from the top of the flange (including flange thickness in measurements).

I have no issue making 1/4" spacers to stick between my block and engine mounts if need be, I also have access to a tig if I feel the need to cut and reweld the flat portion of the pan.

 

So did you order the Speedmaster Pan?

My turn to bug you on this one. Have you had a chance to look at the Holley 302-2?

 

OK! Here is a pic of the Holley 302-2 pan mounted up. This is my manual rack so I can't comment on fitment for you PS guys. I didn't install a gasket, but I don't think there is anything to worry about clearance-wise.





There is a good 1/2" of clearance between the pan and the rack.







Tell me what you guys think about the depth. Do I have anything to worry about here?

 

That looks like a really trim pan Chris! Too bad the bump mid way doesn't start just a little farther back. So the question now is how much different is the power rack to the manual one. The look the same to me from the photos.

 

Can you take a caliper or other measuring device around the middle of the rack where the pan is? I can measure my PS rack and we can have confirmation of similarity. I'm interested in that Speedmaster pan too though.

 

Here you go Steve. I hope this helps.

 

My memory is the power rack was said to reduce clearance by less than 1/2 inch compared to a manual rack. It will be interesting to see how the actual measurements stack up.

 

I got 43mm or 1.69" for the diameter of the power rack. Judging by the pictures that shouldn't present an issue.

 

I meant to post this a while back to give you guys a heads up about the Holley 302-2.

The baffle that comes with the pan is nothing more than a plate and I wasn't going to risk losing oil pressure on my new engine. I found out that Holley offers an aluminum race baffle complete with trap doors specifically designed for the 302-2. It is a beautiful piece. Here's the catch....It's an extra $200.

This drives the pan up into the $550 range if you want proper baffling like I needed.

The first pic is the baffle plate that came with the pan. The others are of the race baffle.

 

Ouch!

 

I've tried the Holley pan in the past on a NB rack. There's contact. Like previously mentioned, if only the hump was a lil further back.

The V8Roadsters steel pan is the better option and has the trap door baffles.

 

How is the baffling on the v8r steel pan? Also, I want a pan with a screw on oil filter, not AN lines

 

It's a trap door sump, for a spin on filter pan they have their aluminum pan.

 

Has anyone tried the Speedmaster pan?

 

Anyone seen this one before?

SLP LS FABRICATED ALUMINUM OIL PAN ASSEMBLY, LS1/LS2/LS6 | Symbol Luxury Performance Products LLC

Seems like there are pans coming out of the wood work like crazy these days!

 

Since it looks like no one has given the Speedmaster Pan a shot, I bought one today:
Chevy GM LS1 LS6 Fabricated Rear Sump Oil Pan Chevelle Camaro Custom & Pickup

I'll give it a test fit and see how it fits. *Fingers Crossed*

 

Given it's maximum quoted stroke of 4.125" with OEM rods, I'm skeptical. Hell, I'd like to find one that'll fit with just a 4" stroke.

Looks like a nice piece, though. Can't beat that price.

 

The Speedmaster Pan came in last night.

Here are the pics:
Unpacking:

(Django is curious)

It's a nice looking piece:


With the pick-up tube:


Baffling:




And the depth at the front:


I won't be able to test fit it until the heads/cam setup comes back from Texas Speed. I'm running a PS rack, so we'll see. It will be tight, I'm sure.

 

Damn for the price that pan totally looks ligit! Not a fan of no baffles but not a big deal to run a quart high on track days. Your measurements are not far off of mine and I think it's going to fit just fine. If so this is a great option for us.

Before you mount that up take a minute and put a straight edge across all the flanges or set it on a perfectly flat surface and see how true it is.

 

 

It's crazy how much these pans cost.

I wonder if I weld up a stock pan, how the pickup tube will be? Will that need to be modified too? For a LS3 btw.

 

Good looking new oil pan. I haven't researched this pan at all, so please 'splain how or where the oil filter mounts..?

Thx!

 

It's a little less sweet that its a remote mounted oil filter and that's additional cost. How much did you piece together your kit for jim? I haven't seen much online that looks suitable.

It supplies AN fittings in and out and it's up to you to come up with lines to and from an oil filter housing.

 

LOL as usual I broke all the rules on the remote oil filter. I'm using hydraulic lines with hose clamps and an ebay housing. Everyone said to use braided with AN fittings but I'll tell you it was real handy to just cut one when I put an oil cooler in!

So if you are building a good car use braided lines. If you want to be super cheap go to any farm store and pick up 5/8 oil line and some clamps. See also here https://www.v8miata.net/general-moto...ge3/#post16068 and https://www.v8miata.net/ford-v8-disc...location-2516/