So as I am still sourcing a few more things for my build, I thought it may be a good idea to get some peoples opinions on some of the common parts(FM, V8 Roadsters, Bossfrog), and if they would do it again. Basically, things like the cooling system, fuel, etc. If you had it to do over again, would you buy the kit, or try and source it all on your own. The driver here is I am looking at fuel systems and from what I can tell, the V8R kit is the way to go. It looks like a really nice setup, and actually fair on the price($445). Do you guys agree? What parts/systems would you have done on your own instead of buying, or buy instead of doing on your own if you had to do it again?

 

Wow really great question that should be asked more often!

I bought the FM clutch kit, FM power steering kit and Monster diff kit and didn't think either of them were worth it.
The fittings for the PS kit were only for a Vette pump and wouldn't work on my F body so I paid 100 bucks for 4 feet of hose and as many hose clamps.
The clutch kit was better but all it is is a wilwood master cylinder and an adaptor I could have made in 30 minutes. So I could have bought the same thing from Summit for half the price.
The diff mount I could have built a far better one for 10% of what I paid for Martins. But I didn't ask this question!

I looked at the fuel kit and feel it is just like the above. However if you want a top quality complete turn key I agree it is a good value. I paid 60 for the pump, 40 for the vette fuel filter and 137 for all the -AN fittings and all new fuel lines. Lines 5 through 10 HERE. Total $237 but I did not run -AN on the return because there is no pressure there.

 

So for the power steering did you just make your own fittings?

On the clutch master cylinder, it looks like I can buy a universal wilwood kit off summit for $67 bucks, but it will not have the stainless braided lines, which I guess I could buy elsewhere.

I'll definitely be building the diff mounts, no questions asked

Now I have very little experience with the fuel lines and fittings. Would you consider that a difficult system to figure out? Its certainly work 200+ dollars to me to give it a try.

 

For the power steering I used this hose http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-658530 which is about a foot too long but I bought it for the fuel system and it was on my bench so I gave it a shot and it worked great. I ended up buying another for the high pressure side fuel pump to fuel filter which was also a foot too long. Anyway the fitting that goes on the pump is a -6AN male to M20 x 1.5mm male and at the other end is -6AN male to M16 x 1.5mm male. You might want to check that on your pump and rack before you order them but I'm pretty sure that is right. The pump side didn't quite seat right so I put a crush style oil plug gasket under it to make up the difference and no leaks. The rest is just low pressure 3/8th fuel lines for the return and a cooler. I used one from a Jeep I got in a bone yard for 6 bucks. Good photos of power steering cooler version 1 and version 2 here http://jimsmiata.blogspot.com/2013/0...oling-101.html Go with 2 because I cooked the pump with the first one...

On the clutch you don't need the braided bleed line. The F body bleeder on your slave is no harder to bleed than having the fancy hose. The pressure line is just a basic -4an or so braided hose but there is a GM quick disconnect in there the kit addresses so that you would have to figure out. You could probably find the answer in an hour of digging on LS1tech because a lot of guys change that hose out or change to the tick adjustable master in F bodies.

The fuel system is a piece of cake and documented in lots of guys build threads. You need the fitting to go from the GM quick disconnect on the fuel rail to what ever line you use. I just used 3/8" hard line from NAPA. On the other end you need the fitting from the line to the filter quick disconnect and the adaptor for the hose from the pump. Then the summit hose I listed above is the feed and about 4 feet of normal 3/8 fuel line and a couple of clamps for the return. See the bottom 2 photos here. Jim and Jenna build diary, Miata LS1 Conversion: The other half of the back half No it's not pretty, organized or well plumbed but no leaks in 15,000 miles so I'm OK with that!

Side note: notice in the tank photo I have the vent just capped off? Don't do that because there is no way to relive tank pressure. After a year that very high pressures in the tank I put a 6 lb check valve on there and ran it to a charcoal canister hung behind the passenger seat on the frame. Not sure if the valve was on the Camaro or the Miata but it was in my pile of parts and works great. Anyway I also put power steering cooler #1 in the return line to help with fuel boiling and I think it helps some. I also don't let it get below a 1/4 tank and put a double shield over the exhaust at the tank and all boiling and pressure problems are solved.

 

or just skip that power steering all together ... thats the route i m going

 

These were reasonably easy to build... welds would be better if I didn't pick such a windy day to weld.

 

+1 ^^ and those are much nicer looking arms that I made! I did it a little different though and just welded the bars to the car. (just tacked in the fitting stage here)


I looked at that and it works out to be cheaper to keep the power steering than eliminate it if you are using an F body donor. That and as I studied the concept I found lots of people removed it and then added it back after a year or so. I figured I would skip that step...

 

I started with power steering that came in my CVS accessory kit until p/s pump failed with just over several hundred miles on it. Depowered the steering rack following FM instructions and am much happier using the depowered rack. I did retain the p/s pulley setup in case I ever wanted to replace p/s pump and install a new power steering rack.

 

I cooked a pump early on too. Don't skimp on the cooler!

 

those are on my list for sure, very nice