My son went in the Navy and left is dead 96 Miata with me. He still owed me $1600 on the car so that is what I have into it. It uses a quart of oil every 400 miles and the #3 cylinder only has 20 psi of compression. The AC is toast and the suspension is so shot it's probably not safe to drive.



So do I sell it as is, fix the 4 banger or convert it to a v8?

To convert I would have to send my Camaro down the road and probably net about $6500 after what I already have into the Miata.


I am a decent mechanic with no fear of wiring or fabrication but Jasons post here: https://www.v8miata.net/general-miat...-378/#post2264
has me concerned the cost would land me in the dog house.

So I guess I have 3 questions.
What do guys think I should do with the Miata?
Can I convert it for $6500 if I am careful?
And most important do you think a monster miata would beat a LS1, T56 Camaro with racing suspension and 391 RWHP on road course or autocross?

I love my Camaro and would only do this if it is a clear step up in performance and coolness.

Thanks!!

 

Hey charchri4, welcome to v8miata.net

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Hope to see you around!

 

The post you refered to above was actually talking about Ford 5.0 swaps, not LSx ones. Being that you have the donor car already, you could possibly do a Ford V8 swap for $8K or so if you can get at least $1K out of the Miata (possible with 1.8 parts). Using a kit it would be very hard to do an LSx for that. If you can fabricate anything is possible. If you need to go with a kit a Ford is the only chance unless you can score a used kit on the cheap.

-Jason

 

Thanks Jason that is very helpful.

Just to clarify I would sell the Camaro hole as is and do a 302 conversion due to the lower cost of the monster set up.

I have a line on a T5 from an 83 mustang GT with bellhousing and shifter for $150 and a 96 explorer motor take out for $300. Just not sure what makes the most sense.

 

Cool. I'm always happy to see another Ford enter the world.

The 1983 T5 will be a non-WC T5 (non World Class). These transmissions are different from the later WC transmissions in that they have bronze sycros as opposed to the later teflon ones and the input shaft sleeve (the part the throwout rubs on) will be cast as opposed to steel. The only differnce you may feel from your end is a bit harder shifting due to the sycros. The shaft sleeve can be easily replaced with a later steel one which I would do if you see any damage to it. They are pretty cheap.
It's claimed that they are not rated for the same torque as a WC trans. I actually used one for my first and second builds and had no problems with them. As an added bonus, the rebuild kits are about $100 cheaper than the WC rebuild kits. $150 for a trans, bell and shifter is good. A new bell alone is $200.

Make sure you get a block plate if it does not come with the trans. The Explorer one will not work. A guy o eBay makes new ones from aluminum for a very reasonable price. Go that route before OEM or used.

The Explorer motor may get you an awesome set of heads and a good intake or it may not. Early 5.0 Explorers had "GT40" heads and intakes, later ones had "GT40P" heads and intakes. The GT40 intake has provisions for EGR while the P does not. If you do not need to run emissions ether will work for you. The GT40 heads have the same spark plug angle as Mustang E6 heads, which is what the Monster Miata kit's headers are designed around. The GT40P's have a differnt angle which will not work with the kit's headers.

To tell the difference:

Heads-GT40's have three vertical bars cast into them at the front and back. GT40p's have 4. GT40 plugs come out at an angle, GT40P's come stright out.

Intake-GT40P's will have a gap in the lower intake between the first four runers and the last four. GT40's will be cast across that and have a small 3/4 or so inch hole in that spot that leads to the exhaust chambers on the heads.

In ether case you'll get a nice 65mm throttle and some nice later-model 19 pound injectors that can be used. If you want EGR you'll need to buy a 65mm Mustang EGR spacer to go between the intake and throttle. If you're not doing EGR you can bolt the throttle directly to the intake.

The Explorer front accessories are not the same as a Mustang. If you don't need AC or PS you can go with the Explorer stuff and gain a little room beween the engine and radiator. If you do want ether of those you'll have to source the Mustang stuff. All of it can be found on eBay used or through Ford racing new.

The Explorer has a cast aluminum oil pan. Monster Miata will need a steel Msutang one to modify. Since most used pans are pretty bad at this point any how this is pretty much a non issue. I always just have a new pan drop shipped to him. You will need to source a Mustang oil pick up and new Mustang oil pump. Again, the pump is a non-issue as you should be putting a new one in anyhow.

The Explorer runs a distributorless ignition system. You'll need to pick up a Mustang duistributor. They are $120 at Autozone. Get one with the TFI module included and then relocate it using one of my kits.

-Jason

 

Thanks Jason! Probably won't go with an EGR since I live in the sticks of Minnesota and have no inspection issues.

So if I could ask a probably dumb question why doesn't anyone ever just use a carburetor and make life simple? Perhaps that complicates things in the long run or something...

Also have you ever run aluminum heads on your conversions? I'm wondering if the 50lbs is worth $300ish.

 

If your local regulations allow, you can use a carb. It has been done.

You can calculate the power to weight ratio with and without the 50 pounds. Whether that difference is worth the cost is up to you. An aftermarket head can increase power, so that's another consideration. Although the weight is at the end of the car, most drivers would not notice the difference. If money isn't a consideration I wouldn't hesitate to go with a lighter and better head, but that's me.

 

Decided to start a new thread out in the main forum:

https://www.v8miata.net/general-miat...-767/#post4468