Disclaimer:
I have asked this question over at miata.net, and I am looking for more focused responses than I have been getting over there, hence the duplicate post here.

The Car Now:
Stock 2002 miata, base model.

The Car When I'm Done:
2002 with LS(x) swap, 350-400whp. 15x8 6UL's (these may be changed later, but let's use these for now since I already have them on the '94 mentioned in my sig)

Use:
Street driven in the summer with a lot of autocrossing and the occasional track day. Class at autocross doesn't really matter because of the non-Mazda engine pushing me out of most any class.

Commentary and Wants:
I am relatively new to suspension work, but I know how to use the internet and I really want to learn so use big words where necessary and I'll figure out what they mean. Links to good readings would also be appreciated.

I want to start with the suspension on this car, and then go for the motor. My suspension budget isn't huge, but I'm hoping it is reasonable to get me started. I'd like to get where I'm going for $1400 including a roll bar. My goal is to get it set up with the stock motor such that when I get the extra cylinders I can just swap out the springs and be good to go (and an alignment, of course). Chassis stiffening like strut tower braces and frame rails will come later so let's not stress about those right now.

I will be doing all the work myself, and I don't mind buying used shocks and having them re-valved or anything like that if it will improve the bang to buck ratio.

I have been reading a lot of threads on m.net about lowering, and reduced travel in the rear being a problem, but most of these threads seem to be dealing with the NAs. Is this an issue for the NBs also, or did they fix that between the two generations?

I would like a lot of flexability, so I can adjust and tweak as I improve as a driver.

The Questions:
-What shocks/springs do you recommend for before the swap? I assume spring rate for after will depend on how much weight is added.
-Is a package (ie. FM stage x) my best bet, or piecemeal?
-What little wisdom I have says to get the biggest front sway I can find, and use either the stock rear bar, or no rear bar at all, is this correct (don't forget the amount of horsepower I am adding)?
-Do some rollbars add more stiffness than others, or are they all going to add about the same amount? I like the look of the double hoop bars (NOT style bars, I know those are dumb) best, but I have been hearing that I should really consider a "real" roll bar instead, fwiw.

 

Koni sports, Ground Control coilovers with your choice of spring rates (After putting 5-6 different spring rates in the car, i REALLY like my 420/220 f/r split with Racing Beat bars front and rear for an auto-x/street car), Racing Beat bars, FCM bumpstops, ISC top hats, poly A-Arm bushings. A bit over budget, but what part of this swap isn't!?!

 

I like what you are saying. I have always liked the Koni sports as a good mix between street and competition driving. I don't have a good feel for spring rates, but I will probably give the ones you suggest a try as the first pair with the V8. Any recommendations for pre-swap spring rates, or should I just give them a try?

I plan to tweak the suspension later, after the engine build is done, so I will probably put a giant front sway in now (in addition to the shocks/springs), and then tweak things like top hats, bushings, rear sway, and end links later. Does that sound reasonable?

 

You might want to get the top hats when you order the springs. With the ISC top hats, I needed a spring that was 2 inches taller then the one FM/GC provides. The rest looks good. Build as money/the boss permits

 

What do these top hats do? I read a little about them on the iscracing site, but it mostly sounds like they are to increase travel in the rear. Won't that cause rubbing issues of the tire-meets-fender variety, at least in the front?

They look like the same thing FM sells, and FM specifically says not to use them on the front, or on the NB.

 

Looking at the racing beat site, it suggests the use of a bunch of extra stuff (looks like it would add a bunch of weight, and maybe not even all fit with a V8) to strengthen mounting points for the sway bars. Is this stuff all necessary?
http://racingbeat.com/FRmiata.htm bottom part of the page

 

I have that bracing stuff sitting in a box to sell. We built custom mounts for the front sway bar using 2x2 square tubing, and I left just enough room between the sway bar and the engine to get a belt slipped around it. I also moved the sway bar links on the lower A arms forward some to get rid of some of the angle in the heim. For endlinks, find a circle car store in your area. I have a grand total of 60 dollars for 1/2 inch teflon coated end links on the front end.

The ISC hats allow you to "properly" lower your car, while still getting full travel. I rarely ever touch the bumpstops now, if ever, where I used to nearly sit on them.

 

The other shock option is to run a re-valved Bilstein for your particular combination. There is currently a group buy over at Miataturbo.net for re-valved Bilsteins from Stewart Development. Bernie has put together a very competitively priced package for both new shocks and re-valving customer shocks. Dyno graphs are supplied with each shock too.

 

I hate to sound like a broken record but don't discount a full set-up of revalved bisteins and coilovers from Fat Cat Motorsports. He's currently selling all new sets for $1600.

That said, I'm going to try to save some cash and stick with this current donor car's Koni set-up it has now and see how it works. Currenty it has 500 pound front springs and 325 rears all riding on Ground-Control perches with NB hats and Koni yellows. As good as it feels now (pre-331) I have a sinking feeling another FCM set will be my first big upgrade after the car is on the road (and hopefully my only upgrade)...

-Jason

 

Shaik's stuff is a good deal if you don't have any "re-usable" suspension parts. If you already have used Bilstein HDs or Rs, Shaik is referring those re-valves over to Stewart Development. Additionally, the FCM bumpstops are really good and available in several sizes.