I keep seeing guys making an impression on the tunnel when installing 302 and T5s. By impression, I mean hacking it to pieces. Why does this need to be done? Will the 302 not move back because of the firewall? It's such a small V8 that I can't imagine that... But I'm not at the fitting stage yet, so I'm not going to judge. If the motor is perfectly placed and the transmission ends up an inch too far forward, why isn't it more popular to use the 94-95 GT Mustang transmission and bellhousing? Ford had the same problem when they stretched the Fox platform to SN-95 dimensions and so they extended the input shaft on the transmission and used a longer bellhousing. Has anyone tried this? I really want to use a factory style shift boot and chassis shift boot on the car and keep the swap as bolt-in simple as possible (don't laugh). Anyone?

 

I sold one of those bellhousings to a guy on here a few years ago. I am not sure if he has his car going yet. I think that people choose to go with the standard length T5 because they are more readily available & the modifications to the tunnel area are minor.

 

The largest modification that needs to be done is the cutting away of the "ears" of the engine bay to allow the heads to sit far enough back. It's really no big deal and requires no welding. The kit comes with two little plates you can glue in place or you can just cut it to look OEM. As far as modifying the tunnel goes, all I've done is spend about 10 minutes with a small sledge banging on the driver's side in one small 6-9 inch round spot. The only purpose for this is really just to give you a little more room to work with when it comes time to bleed and adjust the clutch slave/pushrod. The trans itself is smaller than the original.

Using the later trans would position the shifter much closer to the factory hole. Most of us use the earlier one simply because it's more available and only requires a minor shift extender (included in the kit) to use.

I have used a blow-proof bellhousing in one of my builds. The larger diameter of it did require more modification as well as necessitating the removal of the entire engine to change the clutch. With a stock bell the flywheel, clutch, bell, starter and trans can all be installed from below by one person.

It’s the LSx kits that require cutting, widening and welding of the tunnel, along with full removal of the interior and dash.

-Jason

 

I install a 1995 engine with transmission in my miata, the shifter was close but i have to make a aluminum part to make it right.

I can try to make some picture of it.

 

Hope that help

 

My shifter is a B&M

 

Your using a 94-95 transmission?

 

no mine is an 86.
The engine is from a 95. I tried to locate a 95 belhousing and T5. but could locate one so my shifter is a little farther forward. I did get the shifter handle in the center of the Miata hole.
note: my engine is off set 1 1/2" to the passenger side to allow for The Ford Racing headers which also moves the trans to the passenger side.

 

did the same thing with my block hugger... did you keep the 1995 wiring? I almost finish mine. Keeping the 1995 relay box. Did you have a picture off your header.

 

No I thought that it would be to my advantage to use the A9L ECM & Wiring harness. I had Jason rework the harness and check out the A9L.

 

Look great, did you move the steering rack a bit? move mine about 1/2 inch.

A9L wiring are alot less troubles to mix with the miata harness

 

No, I left the steering rack in place, just the 1 1/2" engine shift to the Passengers side.
That did cause some trouble with the exhaust routing. 2 1/2" dia exhaust piping.
I was able to tuck the exhaust up even with the bottom of the rails though.