I am building a Monster Miata (2001) with a Ford 5.0 and a new T-5 and Cobra clutch assembly. Car is basically complete but I am having a problem with the hydraulic clutch system.

If I adjust the master and slave to give enough throw to shift the transmission, the fork moves approx 1 1/2 inches and binds up, it will not release unless I get under the car and force it back in place. If I adjust it so it doesn't bind, I can't get it to shift. I have done all the recommended mods, Jason's bracing, new hole in clutch arm, etc. I think there is something wrong with clutch assembly.

Anyone have any suggestions?

 

Did you accidently adjust the ball in the bellhousing that the fork pushes on? If it's too far forward it may bind. Another possibilty would be that your throwout bearing is not seating in the fork just right or is the wrong type.

When it binds up I assume the master cylinder is not sticking, right?

Good luck,
-Jason

 

When it binds, open the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder. If the fork releases you know that you have a hydraulic issue. If the fork does not release, you know you have a mechanical issue.

 

I added more pre-load on the clutch arm and that seems to have solved the problem. Still have to be careful putting it in reverse...........

Thanks for the advice

 

All T-5's should be first shifted to 5th and then reverse. Going into reverse directly will always cause a grind.

-Jason

 

I go from 4th to reverse as stated in a very old Ford special service message.

 

I have noticed alot of advice about clutch problems and I wish someone really gave the final good answer.Alot of people have adjusting problems as I had listening to the manual I purchased and other advice. My clutch didn't disengage on my ko 600.first had 3/4 master then bought 7/8, more wasted money.Figured it out myself I had to move the pivot hole for slave at least another 1/2 inch inward more than the paid manual stated.This made fulcrum steeper on clutch side now to release clutch.Went through much disgust listening to bad advice.Please when advice is given make it time tested.

 

You can't expect everything on the internet to be true or even valid. It's up to you to sift through the advice of every Joe, Dick and Harry who posts and decide which is the best advice.

What you did eventually, in addition to bracing the slave against the trans, is what most people end up doing. I really don't see any advice in the 5 or so posts before this in this thread that could have led you down the wrong path.

Sorry if the infinite, infallible wisdom of the internet let you down,
-Jason

 

This seems like a recent enough thread to ask...

I'm installing a ford clutch kit on a ford flywheel, ford bellhousing and T-5z trans. Everything is new. I purchased the clutch master, bracket, pushrod, hose from Martin. Drilled/tapped the holes and drilled new hole on clutch fork per his instructions. I went to install the slave and it seemed like the Martin pushrod is about 5/8" too long. In fact, the original miata pushrod seems to be the perfect length, slave piston is bottomed out right when preload begins on the fork.

I called Martin and he said you have to preload the clutch fork by using a prybar to move the fork, install slave, release, adjust pushrod for proper clutch operation (this detail is missing from the instruction sheet I have). Is this true? From the above mention of preload, I think it may. Preloading a clutch seems like a bad idea...bad for throwout bearing, bad for crank thrust bearings, bad for clutch capacity, etc...So, is this the correct procedure? And throwout bearings survive?

 

Over the years I have noticed a lot of issues with clutch adjustment on these conversions, both 5.0 and LS types. I just googled "Ford 5.0 clutch preload" and got this:

http://www.ramclutches.com/Tech/Tech...%20Bearing.jpg

which appears to apply to this question. Not a bad explanation. With pictures. Notice it applies to OEM as well as their dual disc setup. It also supports your "about 5/8" too long" observation.

On another related note, I personally believe that there are frequently issues with the relief port in the master cylinder not opening due to misadjustment in the system, which can be a whole nother problem after the preload issue is solved.

Fortunately, I have an automatic, no clutch issues, just less room for exhaust.

Mike

 

The throwout should be preloaded slightly so that it always spins. As far as adjustment goes, I always back the adjustment nut on the rod back so that I can just slide everythign togther and bolt it up without any tention. After assembly I adjust the nut out until I can turn the driveshaft by hand (with trans in first gear) and then back it back until I can't. That's usually a good starting point, you'll probaly have to fine tune it after you're on the road.

Tim, did you make up the bracing and backing plate most people do or just go with tapping the bell? I noticed a lot of flex with the original set-up.



BTW Tim, I'm having a not so easy time finding the replacement ABS diff I thought I'd be able to find that would allow me to sell you my current non-ABS one. There are a few like mine I've seen in the yard (3.27 limited slip, no ABS bosses) but 3.27 LS with ABS bosses are looking pretty scarce. How much longer do we have until your need is "imminent"?

-Jason