New Gauge Cluster Layout and Gauges
#1
New Gauge Cluster Layout and Gauges
A few weeks ago in another thread I promised to post up some pics of my gauge swap project. It's something I decided to tackle over the cold months. Overall, the project was a little harder than I thought it would be and a bit more time consuming, but, honestly, thats par for most of my projects. Not to mention, I must have started over 5 times with the center cluster deciding how to make everything fit and work. Life would have probably been a lot easier if I didn't have my mind set on 5" gauges for RPM and Speedo.
Anyway, here's how it turned out and I'll apologize for the crappy pictures. A photographer I am not, especially with my Iphone...
And the post wouldn't be complete with out a least one picture of the mid project carnage...
I have now eliminated the keyed ignition, it is push to start only. Their is no more steering wheel lock. The original turn signal switch/arm device has been removed and replaced by switches on the center console. The headlight switches (high and low beam) are now on the center console. All ignition, accessories and other necessary items are all rocker arm switch operated. I really enjoyed how much this cleaned up the look around the steering shaft. The primary activator is a hidden kill switch, to prevent any unauthorized joy rides...
Overall, I'm happy with how it turned out. Would be interested to hear any feedback (positive or otherwise)...
Ford 408 Stroker
Ford T5Z Transmission
Ford 7.5" rear (SRA) 4 link Rear Suspension
Forged Eagle 4340 crankshaft
Eagle forged H-beam connecting rods
Wiseco pistons
Edlebrock Victor Jr. aluminum heads
Edlebrock upper & lower intake manifolds
Crane Hydraulic Cam
MSD fuel pump
RJM standalone EFI wiring harness
A9L Ford computer
Griffin radiator
QA1 Coilovers Front and Rear
Z1 Star Specs
Anyway, here's how it turned out and I'll apologize for the crappy pictures. A photographer I am not, especially with my Iphone...
And the post wouldn't be complete with out a least one picture of the mid project carnage...
I have now eliminated the keyed ignition, it is push to start only. Their is no more steering wheel lock. The original turn signal switch/arm device has been removed and replaced by switches on the center console. The headlight switches (high and low beam) are now on the center console. All ignition, accessories and other necessary items are all rocker arm switch operated. I really enjoyed how much this cleaned up the look around the steering shaft. The primary activator is a hidden kill switch, to prevent any unauthorized joy rides...
Overall, I'm happy with how it turned out. Would be interested to hear any feedback (positive or otherwise)...
Ford 408 Stroker
Ford T5Z Transmission
Ford 7.5" rear (SRA) 4 link Rear Suspension
Forged Eagle 4340 crankshaft
Eagle forged H-beam connecting rods
Wiseco pistons
Edlebrock Victor Jr. aluminum heads
Edlebrock upper & lower intake manifolds
Crane Hydraulic Cam
MSD fuel pump
RJM standalone EFI wiring harness
A9L Ford computer
Griffin radiator
QA1 Coilovers Front and Rear
Z1 Star Specs
Last edited by The Wretch; 06-06-2014 at 03:39 PM.
#3
Yeah I read it. Yeah I studied the photos. Yeah I felt like a looser to see how it should be done! One would be hard pressed to find a more epic dash than what you have put together there. I was wondering what the buttons in the radio hole all do. Love the red covered toggles!
#4
I Like it! I currently have water and temp in the center ac vent holes too. Unfortunately they got to go since I'm (for the wife) going to get ac working which means it'll be stock temp/oil pressure monitoring.
I particularly like the pushbutton start with hidden switch. Sweet.
I particularly like the pushbutton start with hidden switch. Sweet.
#5
Thanks for the feedback fellas...I'll throw up a short video of how everything functions when I get home tonight to give you an idea of what everything does.
I was going to try and do something unique with the water and oil pressure gauges, but the center ac vent holes are just a perfect and easy spot for a non a/c car...Sometimes you just don't need to reinvent the wheel...
Jim, can't wait to see the car when it's out of final paint...What's the hold up man? You're killing us!
I was going to try and do something unique with the water and oil pressure gauges, but the center ac vent holes are just a perfect and easy spot for a non a/c car...Sometimes you just don't need to reinvent the wheel...
Jim, can't wait to see the car when it's out of final paint...What's the hold up man? You're killing us!
Last edited by The Wretch; 06-16-2014 at 11:17 AM.
#7
#8
#9
Yes sir you hit it right on the head with fitment and wiring! The cluster is wider by quite a bit and would take some serious trimming on the ends to work but I think that part could be done. The top radius of the cluster is different too with the Miata much rounder but again I think that could be worked out.
The show stopper fitment problem is the cut out for the steering column. The Miata cluster is straight across the bottom but the Camaro has about a 4" cut out in the bottom to straddle the steering column. Even if you could put something in the hole it makes the cluster sit too high and doesn't flow well in the Miata. If you pushed the cluster down so the hole would straddle the column you would not see much of the gauges with all the switches on the steering column blocking it and no tilt wheel.
The other problem is the Miata cluster tips out at the top but the Camaro tips out at the bottom and at a much steeper radius than the Miata. Probably could have figured out something for the angle like making a custom lens for it but it would take a ton of surgery and between that an the hole it would be really hard to make it look like it belongs in the car.
I really didn't get far enough into it to consider wiring but I know enough about the Camaro to know about 1/3rd of the wires from the cluster go to the body computer and would be a lot of messing around with.
I really wanted to use the Camaro cluster because I like the lay out of the gauges, I had it and didn't cost me anything and the mileage would be right for the motor. But in the end it was so much easier to just use an NB cluster and I really like the no nonsense, looks like it belongs there, look of that cluster as well. And it was pretty cheap solution too. But I think what Joe did above is way better than either the Camaro or NB option!
The show stopper fitment problem is the cut out for the steering column. The Miata cluster is straight across the bottom but the Camaro has about a 4" cut out in the bottom to straddle the steering column. Even if you could put something in the hole it makes the cluster sit too high and doesn't flow well in the Miata. If you pushed the cluster down so the hole would straddle the column you would not see much of the gauges with all the switches on the steering column blocking it and no tilt wheel.
The other problem is the Miata cluster tips out at the top but the Camaro tips out at the bottom and at a much steeper radius than the Miata. Probably could have figured out something for the angle like making a custom lens for it but it would take a ton of surgery and between that an the hole it would be really hard to make it look like it belongs in the car.
I really didn't get far enough into it to consider wiring but I know enough about the Camaro to know about 1/3rd of the wires from the cluster go to the body computer and would be a lot of messing around with.
I really wanted to use the Camaro cluster because I like the lay out of the gauges, I had it and didn't cost me anything and the mileage would be right for the motor. But in the end it was so much easier to just use an NB cluster and I really like the no nonsense, looks like it belongs there, look of that cluster as well. And it was pretty cheap solution too. But I think what Joe did above is way better than either the Camaro or NB option!
Last edited by charchri4; 06-18-2014 at 09:42 AM.
#12
The short version is, I fiber-glassed over the open space in the instrument hood, which left a close to flat front face. I then used body filler to achieve the flat surface. I then sanded until it was flat and contoured to the rest of the cluster hood. I then outlined my gauge diameters and turn signal light diameters l and cut the holes using a dremel tool. Process probably took a day because of the resin curing time...
#14
I just spotted this thread because I am looking to replace my oem gauges on my 90 V8. The installation you did is really awesome, and took way more work, skill & patience then I ever imagined or am capable of. You did a terrific job and thanks for sharing that with us.
My car is a track car, gutted, full cage. As of now the only oem gauges working are the fuel and speedometer.
I have a tach mounted on my steering column. Oil pressure, water temp, voltage mounted on the center console where the radio, air/ac and storage compartment were along with an on/off switch and start button.
What I am looking at are the self contained electronic Dash Displays. I'm not interested in the Data Logger versions. All I want are the gauges that are important to me(tach, oil pressure/temp, water temp, fuel, etc) directly in front of me where I can see them and in a nice clean package.
I've seen a few from, AIM, Stack, RacePak etc. I'm hoping someone here has some hands on practical experience with these and can offer some info/advice based on their experience. I'm looking to spend under $1000.
Thanks
MWest
My car is a track car, gutted, full cage. As of now the only oem gauges working are the fuel and speedometer.
I have a tach mounted on my steering column. Oil pressure, water temp, voltage mounted on the center console where the radio, air/ac and storage compartment were along with an on/off switch and start button.
What I am looking at are the self contained electronic Dash Displays. I'm not interested in the Data Logger versions. All I want are the gauges that are important to me(tach, oil pressure/temp, water temp, fuel, etc) directly in front of me where I can see them and in a nice clean package.
I've seen a few from, AIM, Stack, RacePak etc. I'm hoping someone here has some hands on practical experience with these and can offer some info/advice based on their experience. I'm looking to spend under $1000.
Thanks
MWest
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Carlisle
V8 Miata Wiring, Electrical, and ECUs
8
06-15-2011 02:26 PM
rick
Parts For Sale
0
04-10-2011 12:27 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)